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Thursday, June 3, 2021

Fair Field on Polly Drummond's Hill

North side of the Fair Field barn
Although farms in the 18th and 19th Centuries were awash in all kinds of structures, both large and small, the two most important were the dwelling house and the barn, just not always in that order. In fact, it was not unusual for a family settling on a new piece of ground to first build a small log home while they worked on the larger, permanent barn, then only several years later replace their home with a larger, more permanent stone or frame house. For while the family could make due with a smaller home for a while, they still needed a place for their livestock and equipment, without which they'd be looking at some very hard times.

As the 19th Century gave way to the 20th and the landscape of MCH changed, many of these farms ceased operating. Some were abandoned, leaving all the buildings to fall into ruins. On a lucky few, both the house and the barn were saved, either because some farming was still done or the families worked to save the barn. But because they are large and require a lot of upkeep, most times the barn was left to fall into disrepair or be torn down, even if its accompanying farmhouse was still in use. On most MCH properties where a historic home still stands, either the barn is completely gone or at best, a few walls stand in testament to its existence.

There are very few instances, however, where circumstances allowed for a barn to survive where the house did not (I should mention that the house and barn were usually built very near each other, no more than a quick walk apart). In one such instance, an old fieldstone barn is now in the hands of  a non-profit organization that, while having nothing to do with history, is nonetheless working to upkeep and continue to utilize the historic structure. The group is the Drummond Hill Pool, and the beautiful barn is the last remnant of the estate once known as Fair Field.

Like most of the farms in MCH, this one began as part of a much larger tract. What confuses things in this case is that the large tracts in this area were broken up through the early and middle 1700's, only to have different large properties cobbled back together later in the century. In our particular case here, the man buying up properties was a Philadelphian named Thomas Montgomery. To add another layer of confusion, although there were several Montgomery families in MCH, Thomas does not appear to be directly related to any of them.

One of the earliest owners of the land that would become Fair Field was Jonathan Evans, listed in deeds as a cordwainer (shoemaker). He bought 402 acres prior to 1713 and sold it in 1724 to Presbyterian minister Thomas Craighead. In 1727, Craighead sold 1½ acres to be used for the new White Clay Creek Presbyterian meeting house. Although the little church is long gone, the 1727 lot is still there along with a small cemetery. Little more than a century later, another notable adjacent small lot was sold off, with connections to this time period, but more on that in a moment.

As noted, tracing the exact area in question gets a bit tricky (for me, at least) for the next half century or so, until the arrival of  the aforementioned Thomas Montgomery. In the 1770's and 1780's there were several tracts sold by Montgomery to Blair McClenachen, then bought back a few years later, totaling almost 700 acres. In 1808, having already sold off most of this land, Montgomery conveyed the remaining (approximately) 202 acres to John McMullin. This excepted the Meeting House land, but did include what must have been an already old house.

McMullin apparently died around 1815, because in that year the farm was seized from his widow when she could no longer make the mortgage payments (to Montgomery), and sold to John Clark. In 1833, John Clark sold the farm to his son, Cantwell. But before doing so, he sold 3½ acres to Samuel Macklem in 1829. Macklem sold an acre of that in 1835 to Robert Graham, who erected a tavern there. Three years later, Graham sold his tavern to Mary (Polly) Drummond and her two sisters. Up until that time, the area was known as Meeting House Hill. Soon after (and until this day) it would become Polly Drummond's Hill. And one more note on Polly -- she was a widow when she bought the tavern and her maiden name was Evans (she was the niece of the brilliant and underappreciated inventor Oliver Evans). Most likely the Jonathan Evans who had owned the land a century earlier was her great grandfather.

But back to the main farm, in 1839 Cantwell Clark made a series of land deals with Joseph S. Gilbert. Both men lived in Pencader Hundred, near Glasgow, and Clark bought land from Gilbert just north of Glasgow. In turn, Gilbert purchased Clark's 200 acres along the "road leading to Christiana Bridge" (now Polly Drummond Hill Road). Gilbert does appear to have made this his home, as he and his family are listed there in the 1840 and 1850 Censuses. Joseph lived there until his death in 1852 and the following year Eli Mote, as executor of Gilbert's will, sold the farm to John Elliott of Brandywine Hundred.

Elliott came from a prominent Brandywine Hundred family that owned multiple properties. Shortly before moving to MCH Elliott sold a home on Shipley Road (just south of Weldin Road) to Joseph Shipley. The beautiful home still stands today. Elliott also sold land to Shipley that became part of his Rockwood estate. John Elliott moved his family to his new MCH farm and called it Fair Field (and/or possibly Clearfield).

The Elliott farms in 1860. Fair Field to the east
and the two "Home Farms" to the west

From what I can tell, though, Elliott may not have made this his primary home for long. Just two years later, in March 1855, he purchased 98 acres from the estate of William Mote, situated on the west side of Paper Mill Road about halfway between Newark and Milford Crossroads (and also the farm directly south of it). John Elliott may have been thinking of his family's future with these purchases. He was already a widower when he moved to MCH, and his son John Lee Elliott was about 14 when he acquired the Mote farm. When the elder Elliott died in 1861, his will granted the former Mote farm to John L., and referred to it as "the Home Farm." The former Gilbert property was given to his youngest daughters, Josephine and Mary. And though the maps show it as Fair Field, Elliott's will called it Clearfield.

The family held on Fair Field/Clearfield a few more years, not selling it until 1868. The new owner was Thomas Brooks, who came from White Clay Creek Hundred in the area near Old Baltimore Pike and Salem Church Road. The Brooks family spent only about seven years on Polly Drummond's Hill, because in 1875, unable to make the mortgage payment, the farm was sold back to William Bright (he was in real estate and had been the Guardian for the Elliott daughters in 1868 and provided the mortgage to Brooks). Bright held on to the farm (almost certainly as a rental property) until 1881, when it was sold and a major change made.

Bright sold to William and Rebecca Thompson, at the same time that Thompson sold Bright his land in Wilmington (well, not "in" at the time) in what's now the Rockford Park/Highlands area. But, Bright only sold the Thompsons 100 of the 200+ acres of the original farm, namely the section east of Polly Drummond Hill Road. While William was a Delawarean, Rebecca was an English-born Philadelphian. They married in Philadelphia in 1861 and had seven children by the time they moved to MCH. Their youngest daughter, Kate, was about six when they moved.

William Thompson died in March 1894, but the family remained on the farm. In fact, they would do so for the next 70 years or so. The reason they could do so is that in 1898, the now 23 year old Kate married local boy Lewis Greenwalt. Lewis grew up less than a mile and a half away on farms along White Clay Creek, both north (today's Creekside/Green Valley neighborhood) and south (now Brookhaven and Sheffield Manor). Lewis moved onto the Thompson farm, and in 1903 his father, John L. Greenwalt, purchased the farm for him from the ailing Rebecca Thompson. Three years after John's death in 1910, Lewis bought out the other heirs (his brothers and sister) and took full ownership of the estate once known as Fair Field. For the next 50 years it would be the Greenwalt farm.

Lewis and Kate eventually had two sons, Franklin and Gaylord. After Lewis Greenwalt died in April 1931, the family continued to run the farm. In 1952 they leased most of the farm to the Collins family, but Frank and Gaylord used the northern part (where the shopping center is now...New Linden Hill Road followed a more northerly course and came out north of Fox Den Road) for a rather unique business -- the Greenwalts ran a commercial rabbit hatchery. Their "products" were not destined to be pets, but rather were sold to hospitals for use as pregnancy tests. It was such a noteworthy endeavor that in October 1952, Gaylord appeared on the (then) radio show "What's My Line". If you're too young to remember, the show consisted of a celebrity panel trying to guess the guest's occupation. (And if you are old enough to remember, congratulations on that and knowing how to access a blog.)

See, I told you he was on

Kate Greenwalt passed away in 1961, and five years later the property was sold to Leon N. Weiner and Associates for development. By that point the Greenwalts hadn't lived in the old farmhouse for more than 30 years, and it may have been completely vacant for more than a decade. A newspaper article from July 7, 1966 gives us one of only two descriptions of the house that I've been able to find. It stood about 100 feet from the barn, in what's now an open field and play area. It was built in three distinct sections, the oldest being a log house that may easily have dated back to the Evans or Craighead eras, in the early 1700's. Attached to the log house was a fieldstone section, which architects in the 1960's thought may have been built at the same time because there was no wall between them. I would suggest that the log house could have been built first and the stone part added soon after, but in either case they were very old.

The Greenwalt (Fair Field) House in 1966, shortly before demolition

Adjoining these was a third section, believed to date to the late 18th or early 19th Century. The other description of the house, made by writer Francis A. Cooch in 1935, mentions only the larger log and smaller stone sections. The third section, which I assume was of frame construction, was connected to the other two, presumably in the rear. Unfortunately, by 1966 the house was in such disrepair that restoring or moving it was not practical. It was offered to a preservation group, but they were unable to help. The old house, possibly upwards of 250 years old at the time, was torn down.

The Pumpe House (stone barn) as seen from the street

The stone barn, however, remained. Even though it had suffered a devastating fire in the 1940's, the walls were unharmed and it had been rebuilt. It was decided to keep the barn and use it as a community center for the new Village of Drummond Hill. It was renamed the Pumpe House, in keeping with an early theme for the community. The swim club was created soon after, and the Pumpe House became theirs. As anyone who has dealt with historic structures knows, they take lots of work and upkeep, and the swim club as worked hard to keep the old barn in good shape. It's a bank barn, built into the hillside and typical of the area, and you don't get a feel for its full size until you walk around to the east side, away from the street.

The east side of the barn, showing its full height

This barn, probably well over 200 years old, is in remarkable shape, a testament to its construction and to the care it's been given. It's the last remaining piece of an estate that reaches back to the earliest European settlement in the area. It's been through many hands over the years: from early settlers to men of the cloth, from absentee owners to local farmers, and from rabbit breeders a community swim club. The old barn has stood watch over centuries of history on Meeting House/Polly Drummond's Hill.

18 comments:

  1. Very cool, thanks for this. I used to lifeguard at the pool and been inside hundreds of times. There is an unfinished section behind the kitchen/snack bar where we had to go to turn on the pool lights in the evening and it always creeped me out going back there, it had a rock/dirt floor. Being a kid playing around there and going to Wilson elementary, I've been around this area for a while and always wondered the full story of the property. Apparently the neighborhood used to do trick or treating / a haunted house inside the unrenovated barn part back in the 90s, and the stables are/were still there.

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  2. The mention of New Linden Hill road is interesting because before it was rerouted, it went through right next to where the Meeting House Hill swim club used to sit. There was old concrete from the road throughout there going up to Rankin Rd.

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    1. If you look on Google Maps, you can still see a piece of it, next to an open area where I guess the pool was. Also it was two separate roads east and west of Upper Pike Creek Road.

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  3. Lived in this area most of my life, but I always learn new and interesting things from your posts! Thank you.

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    1. You're quite welcome. My goal is that anyone who wants to could ride around the area and have a story to tell just about everywhere. Also, my family hates riding in the car with me. I WILL turn the radio down when I have a story, now shush and listen.

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  4. Outstanding article! I grew up in this area [Meeting House Hill 1967-1970] and Henderson Heights [1970-1974] In 1967 the shopping center had'nt been built yet. The farm area north of the barn was partially razed. The only thing remaining was a small 2-story garage/barn and some ramshackle chicken coops. There were dirt roads winding through area we used to ride our bikes on. There were apple trees and berry bushes. There was a "horse" chestnut tree that we used to gather the nuts and roast them in old coffee can over a fire in the fall. I had friends in Drummond Hill who belonged to the swim club and I would swim in the pool as a guest, change and take showers in the locker/ bathroom on the lowest floor of the barn. The last pic shows the low wall that surrounded a concrete 1/2 court basketball court. It was not fenced-in back then. Etta J. Wilson elementary school had'nt been built yet. Present day Linden Hill Rd. had'nt been built and the old road was barley intact but you could still use it. Polly Drummond Hill Rd. was a very narrow 2-lane road with deep ditches on either side, lined with thick hedgerows of "monkey-balls/hedgeapples" trees. In the summer we used to fish in the farm ponds off Fox Den Rd. and Smiths Mill Rd. and ice skate in the winter. Little's Garage was still owned by Ted Greenplate, used to buy candy from the small candy counter he had in the office. Used to camp-out in the woods on the Judge Morris estate and the Middle-Run area on the other side of Polly Drummond Hill Rd. In those days there was a small pond on the south-east corner of Old Linden Hill Rd. and Upper Pike creek Rd. It was a great place to be a kid!

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    1. Thank you so much for sharing! It definitely does sound like a fun place for a kid to play and explore. That whole area is kind of funny in that since your childhood years, it has both changed and not changed. Yes, there's a bit more housing (especially north of the shopping center) and the shopping center itself, but there's still a lot of open land. And since most (all?) of that land is state park land, it'll stay that way. And yes, Polly Drummond Hill Road is a bit wider now (but aren't we all?), but from Drummond Hill down to Kirkwood Highway is still mostly a whole lot of nothing. If you look at an aerial view, except for a few neighborhoods and Deerfield (Louviers), there's not much development in MCH west of PDHR. Thankfully some of the types of streams, fields, and ponds where you played (and where kids 100 and 200 years before you would have played) are still accessible today.

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    2. Diane Burras Geyer - my uncle was warren CollinsJune 14, 2023 at 10:36 PM

      I grew up - spending summers and many years on the property - living in the house on the property- playing in the chicken coups with my uncle Warren collins caring for my sister and I in the 50’s
      If you know more stories please share with me

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  5. I'm pretty sure I have asked this before on here so I apologize. But looking at aerial maps there was another farm in Meeting House Hill not far from where the current shopping center is. It looks like a large barn stood about where New Side Court meets Rankin Road. Would this have been a different property? It would have been separated from the present day shopping center by Old Linden Hill Road before the rerouting, up just a little from where the old MHH pool stood

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    1. Yes, you are correct [as far as I know] Continuing north from MHH there was another farm [Sheldon] that stood in middle of a huge field directly across from Little's Garage that was demolished in 1969 to build the present-day Deacon's Walk.

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    2. Thank you, although I do know which your talking about where the present day Deacons Walk is, the one I am referring to would be in present day MHH, a lot closer to the shopping center & old pool location. Looks like they were both standing at the same time until both neighborhoods were being built

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    3. Yes, you're correct. There was a house and barn right where you say. On the 1860 map in this post it's labeled as J. Rankin (as in, Rankin Road). I haven't researched this one in detail, but that's probably the Joseph Rankin who is also seen at his main residence in what's now the Deerfield golf course. For most of the rest of the century the Meeting House Hill area farm belonged to his son, Robert Rankin. I don't know what kind of shape it was in at the time, but I imagine it was torn down when MHH was built.

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  6. what is the exact location of this barn?

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    1. It's at the Drummond Hill Swim Club, which is located at 24 Alton Rd, Newark, DE 19711. You can find more info at their website, drummondhillpool.org

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    2. thanks. I thought this was right off Polly Drummond

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  7. I grew up in Drummond Hill and in the woods that were left between Chadd Rd. and Etta J. Wilson School there was an area up from the creek on a trail where we found a farmers dump and dug up old pieces of china, plates, bowls, etc....There was also an old car in the creek.

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    1. We also used to play, make forts and explore across the street from Dewalt Road in the fields and woods before Drummond Ridge was built.

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    2. Sounds like a really fun place for a kid to explore and play. I hope this gives a little context and background for grown-up you about where kid you was playing.

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